Fruit Tree Primer
The Basics
Fruit trees have been around for thousands of years and come in a wide range of varieties. Some of the most common fruit trees that grow in our climate include apples, pears, and stone fruit such as cherries, nectarines, peaches, and plums. This primer is intended to introduce some of the key concepts and terms that you'll want to know as you Garden a la Carte with us! It is informed by our general knowledge gained through experience, rather than a citable source.
Grafting
Nearly all fruit trees sold today are grafted. The "rootstock" or "understock" is the bottom part of the trunk and roots of the tree, which gives the plant its size characteristics and pest-resistance. The top of the trunk and branches are called the "scion" and this determines what fruit will grow. There are many grafting techniques that propagators (people who make more trees) can use and then the graft is taped over or covered in wax. Each results in a knuckle-like callus towards the base of the tree that heals over as the tree matures. It is important not to bury the knuckle when planting the tree because this can cause it to rot from the inside out.
Field Grown to Bareroot Transplant
Most nursery growers plant their young trees in fields to grow until they are ready for sale. Trees are harvested in fall or early spring, while still dormant, using a specialized plow that helps shake off the excess soil. These "bareroot" trees go into cold storage and are packaged for shipping to their buyers. While some online retailers will sell individual bareroot trees to homeowners, we do not because these require special care to survive. Our bareroot trees are professionally potted as transplants so they arrive to you in a container with suitable planting material.
Tree Maturity
Fruit trees mature at different paces based on their characteristics. Height is rarely the best way to gauge maturity. While apple and pear trees often tend to grow up before out, stone fruit tends to be shorter and stout when young. Trunk diameter and branching structure are a better indicator of maturity and the ability to bear fruit. We classify our trees for sale by maturity to help you select the right plant for your budget and timeline.
Dwarf, Semi-Dwarf, and Full Size
These terms refer to a tree's maximum size once fully grown. Most of the trees we sell are semi-dwarf, meaning that they can reach between 12-15' (4-5m) if not pruned to maintain a smaller size.
While a smaller, dwarf tree may be appealing, they require more staking or even trellising (like grapes) because the trunk cannot support a full fruit load once the tree matures.
Full size trees can exceed 20' (6m) and are not generally sold today because their size is not practical for commercial or home growers.
Self-Pollinating versus Self-Sterile
When a fruit tree's spring flower opens, it contains the pollen used to help set fruit. A self-pollinating tree can use pollen from other flowers on the same tree to set fruit, whereas a self-sterile tree needs pollen from a complementary tree to set fruit. Even self-pollinating trees do better, as in produce more fruit, with a pollinator partner. Pollinators can include flying or crawling insects, wind, or manual techniques such as a Q-tip cotton swab. Most of the trees we sell are self-pollinating and those that aren't have suggested compatible pollinator varieties suggested in their catalogue profiles.
Pests
What tastes good to us often also tastes good to pests, so it's important to be prepared for them to take an interest in your fruit trees. Some of the most common challenges include deer and rodents who eat the plants themselves and insects such as Japanese Beetles, LDD Moth, and ants. Certain varieties are also prone to fungal issues such as peach leaf curl and bacteria such as fire blight. We practice integrated pest management at the farm, which involves regular scouting to proactively identify pests and determine the appropriate course of action.
Pruning
Pruning is important to promote healthy growth and fruit production. There are many philosophies about when and how to undertake this practice. We generally recommend pruning in late winter while the trees are still dormant and never more than a third of a branch at once. Some orchards "top" the trees to promote a lower growth habit with multiple tallest branches rather than a "central leader" in the middle of the tree.
Fruit Production and Harvesting
Fruit tastes better when you've grown it yourself! As your fruit gets closer to the usual ripening timeline, you'll want to grab the occasional sample to taste test its flavour and texture. Harvest timelines are as much an art as they are a science, so go ahead and try a bite - if it's not ready yet, it won't taste quite right but you won't take any harm. Once your fruit is ripen, you'll want to harvest right away because birds and animals also seem to know this and you don't want them to enjoy the fruits of your hard work!
Through the Winter
Fruit trees lose their leaves in fall and go dormant over the winter by conserving energy and resources in their roots. During this time, they can be more susceptible to rodent damage because their food is in shortly supply once it snows. Below freezing temperatures are important for fruit trees because this period is needed to produce buds but also to kill off insects that will feed on the tree and its fruit come spring.